Menglian in Yunnan province turns exotic superfruit into local specialty

A farmer checks grafted avocado seedlings in her plot in Menglian. [Photo provided to China Daily]

Traveler Jiang Chaochao added remote Menglian county in Yunnan province to her bucket list of destinations this year because of its reputation as China's "Avocado Town".

"For fitness enthusiasts, this is a huge bonus," said Jiang from Hunan province, who exercises regularly and tries to eat healthy food. "I was excited to learn that in China we have a town that can produce lots of avocados," she added.

During her visit in August, Jiang tried avocado coffee and other unusual dishes made with the fruit. "Avocado coffee is smoother than a regular latte, with the fresh avocado aroma blending seamlessly with the coffee's caramel and fruity notes. It's a low-calorie, healthy drink that's also invigorating," she said.

Wang Longsheng, 32, from Hangzhou, Zhejiang province, also enjoyed the intriguing blend during his stay in Menglian. "I had never heard of, or tasted, avocado coffee before coming here. But after tasting it, I found that the combination is more than the sum of its parts. It retains the distinct flavors of both ingredients while being refreshingly smooth," he said.

Wang's journey to Menglian in April was driven by the town's dual allure: its renowned coffee and its reputation as "Avocado Town".

Coffee is one of the cornerstones of the local economy, contributing an output value of 1.23 billion yuan ($174 million) in 2023. The county's coffee plantation area reached 6,636 hectares this year, with 116 market entities involved in the coffee business, according to the latest data of local government.

Upon his arrival, Wang was delighted by the town's vibrant coffee culture. "The coffee street here is impressive, with shops operating late into the night, which is said to be their peak business time, the opposite of the urban work schedule. Many of the coffee shop owners are also well-versed in coffee culture," he added.

While avocado-related tourism products are in their infancy compared with coffee, Wang sees their great potential. "Avocado dishes in Menglian are versatile and memorable, combining well with a variety of cuisines, including Chinese dishes. Avocado beverages are also plentiful, showcasing the fruit's compatibility with numerous recipes," he said.

The full name of the county in Pu'er, Yunnan province is Menglian Dai, Lahu, and Wa autonomous county. Its avocados are not just a trendy superfood gracing the tables of the middle-income group. Here, they are a beloved local specialty, deeply integrated into the daily lives of the residents.

Local specialty

"For us locals, avocados are a common food," said Zha Ke, a 36-year-old farmer from Menglian.

"Even the elderly eat them regularly now, and young women use avocados from their own trees to make face masks. During festivals and family visits, we always serve avocados to our guests. When we visit friends, we bring avocados as gifts."

In Menglian, avocados are enjoyed in a variety of ways beyond the typical avocado milk and yogurt. Favorites include avocado coffee, avocado with wasabi and soy sauce, fried avocado, and avocado chicken stew. Some restaurants even offer avocado feasts, featuring eight dishes with the fruit.

Zha Ke, who is from the Wa ethnic group, likes avocado chicken porridge, a dish that blends traditional Wa cuisine with the creamy fruit.

Avocados, which originated in Mexico and spread to Central and South America, are now primarily produced and exported by Mexico, Peru and Kenya.

The delicious and nutritious fruit has gained in global popularity due to its association with a healthy lifestyle. Rich in fats, dietary fiber, protein, and vitamins, yet low in sugar, avocados are versatile and can be enjoyed both as a vegetable and a fruit.

In Menglian, avocados have transitioned from an imported novelty to a local specialty thanks to the region's natural advantages and the collaborative efforts of the local government, enterprises, and farmers.

In 2007, Qi Jiazhu, general manager of Pu'er Green Bank Biological Co, began researching suitable locations for avocado cultivation in China. After setting up trial fields in Guangdong, Hainan, and Yunnan provinces, as well as the Guangxi Zhuang autonomous region, the small town of Menglian emerged as the most promising site.

"Menglian and Uruapan in Michoacan, Mexico, the world's top avocado region, are almost on the same latitude and have very similar climates. Menglian's suitable temperatures, ample rainfall, and unique karst topography matched the avocado's preference for moisture without waterlogging," Qi said.

"Even during dry spells, the Nanlei River flowing through Menglian's Mangxin town ensures the avocados receive natural irrigation. Since 2007, we trialed over 100 avocado varieties from around the world in Menglian, but most did not perform satisfactorily," he recalled.

After eight years of testing, his team selected 12 promising varieties, but mainly Hass, for cultivation in Menglian.

"If developed well, Menglian could become a production center for avocados in Asia," Qi said.

In 2015, large-scale planting began in Menglian. However, promoting the large-scale cultivation of an unfamiliar exotic fruit among local villagers was not easy.

Zha Ke first heard about avocados in 2016.

"When officials promoted avocado planting, we were hesitant because we had never heard of avocados and were worried about market demand and income," he recalled. "But after researching online and learning about the high demand for imported avocados, combined with the village's promotion and the '334 collaboration model', we decided to give it a try."