Chiang Mai coffee is defined by zest and ease

Chiang Mai coffee is defined by enthusiasm and ease

A coffee shops in Chiang Mai. Photo/The Wildest Road

Coffee shops are prevalent throughout Chiang Mai. There is a popular saying in Thailand’s coffee scene: any café that gains fame in Chiang Mai can succeed anywhere in the country. However, in this city, living life at a relaxed pace under the banner of coffee is often seen as more important than achieving recognition. Cafés here are like artistic expressions of each coffee maker, who generously infuse their personalities and philosophies into their creations.

When we first arrived in Chiang Mai to explore its coffee shops, we found ourselves trying many. Each time we stepped into a café to escape the heat, we ordered a cup of iced coffee and enjoyed the air conditioning or electric fan, sinking into our chairs to savor the moment. At times, it felt as though we were wasting the energy that caffeine offers. If coffee were simply viewed as a means to wake up, Chiang Mai wouldn’t need so many cafés. Instead, this underscores that drinking coffee here is a genuinely enjoyable experience—a return to a state of original romanticism, free from the fast-paced demands and rapid brand expansions characteristic of metropolitan areas.
The first local coffee I had was at a café called Akha Ama. We ordered a coffee named Meelor, which is the name of the coffee farmer and also the name of the café owner's mother. To promote the coffee beans from his hometown, Lee established this coffee brand in 2010 and opened a café in Chiang Mai. The first sip of Meelor didn’t seem extraordinary, but I realized by the end of my coffee journey in Chiang Mai that this sentiment permeates the coffee here—it’s unassuming and friendly, much like a constant companion sharing in the simplicity of everyday life.

School Café is situated just outside the Old City, adjacent to the railway. This train station primarily serves freight transport, and the café is nestled in a small courtyard across from it. The owner, who insisted on being called Big, is in his 30s. As he prepared a simple hand-brewed coffee, he shared his story with us. In his nearly 40 years of life, he has experienced two significant adventures: the first was his “escape” into the coffee business, and the second was his move to Chiang Mai.

Big is from Bangkok and studied in Melbourne, Australia, where he earned a master’s degree in aircraft design. After graduating, he returned to Bangkok and became an aerospace engineer. His life went smoothly from studying to working, and his income was quite considerable. However, after seven years in his job, he began to feel genuinely lost; work did not provide him with a sense of accomplishment, and he wanted to pursue a different, freer lifestyle.

During his studies in Australia, Big developed a deep appreciation for coffee. Upon returning to Thailand, he decided to further his knowledge in the coffee industry and later opened his own café in a bustling area of Bangkok, naming it “School.” He chose this name because it reminded him of his happy school days, which he considered the best times of his life. He envisioned his café as a place of carefree joy, decorating it to resemble a classroom from his childhood, complete with small tables and chairs, toys, and notebooks—all designed in a nostalgic style reminiscent of the 1980s and 1990s.

After opening his own cafe, Big frequently interacted with bean suppliers and coffee farmers. His curiosity about coffee evolved from merely brewing a good cup to exploring its origins. Consequently, he often traveled from Bangkok to coffee plantations in northern Thailand to learn more. “I started from a café, then moved on to exploring roasted beans, green beans, processing methods, coffee trees, and agricultural practices. I wanted to trace coffee back to its origins, back to the natural ecosystem,” Big said. This ambition fueled his passion for coffee.

Six years ago, while studying on a plantation in Chiang Rai, he met his wife, Jom, a local from Chiang Mai who owns a coffee shop called Simple Happy, which reflects her life vision. Jom had also worked in Bangkok but returned home ten years ago to open her own café. “Starting a café isn’t particularly difficult; I have learned a lot about coffee and have connections throughout the coffee supply chain. The challenge lies in opening one in Chiang Mai, where there are simply too many cafés,” Jom said.

Big and Jom are constantly exploring their own unique models in the competitive café landscape. The mountainous region of Northern Thailand, where Chiang Mai is located, is known for premium coffee bean production. They investigate the origins of coffee and pursue a deeper understanding through vertical exploration. This approach offers independent cafés a pathway for sustainable development. They examine what contributes to better coffee at its source, collaborating directly with coffee farmers and even engaging in coffee cultivation themselves. Transitioning from urban life back to nature, they shift their focus from running cafés to farming, moving from fast consumption to the long-term production of agriculture. By connecting with the mountains, rivers, and soil, they seek to uncover the potential of local coffee. This commitment to their roots is also the primary reason for their decision to return from Bangkok to Chiang Mai.

In recent years, many coffee enthusiasts like Big and Jom, who previously faced challenges making a living in Bangkok, have relocated to Chiang Mai. They are in search of a more relaxed lifestyle that allows them to connect with nature and embrace coffee-making as a joyful part of everyday living. They savor their time, much like the city of Chiang Mai itself. Here, the flavors of coffee go beyond the typical descriptors like nuts, caramel, or cocoa; instead, they evoke emotions. For instance, a cup of coffee might embody warmth, ease, and spontaneity, reflecting the unique rhythm of the local community.

(The author is a reporter for Sanlian Life Weekly, and the article has been abridged.)
Translated by YNTA

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