Xu Qingshan crafts the finest tea in Baoshan

In Baoshan, Yunnan, there exists a tea called Sanchun that goes beyond an ordinary beverage, serving as a testament to history and a vessel of culture. This tea is crafted from leaves harvested from ancient big-leaf tea trees. Its unique flavor profile—sweet and refreshing with a touch of moderate bitterness—result from a special process known as pile fermentation. The brew boasts a rich, golden hue that is beautifully translucent.

Sanchun tea, recognized as an intangible cultural heritage in Baoshan, has benefited from the dedication and innovation of six generations of tea artisans. Xu Qingshan, the sixth-generation inheritor of Sanchun tea, has devoted over thirty years to perfecting his craft. He is actively involved in every aspect of the process, from production and cultivation to teaching. Even during the tea-picking season, he climbs the tea mountains and works in the workshops, personally mentoring his apprentices in the art of tea-making. Above all, his primary mission remains clear: “to craft the finest tea.”

“During my childhood, I frequently heard my elders say that the crafting techniques of Sanchun tea trace back to the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty (1851-1861). It spread beyond Baoshan and across the country via horse caravans,” Xu recounted, sharing the rich origins of Sanchun tea in vivid detail.

“To address the shortcomings of Baoshan tea leaves—their lack of aroma, uniform bitterness, and absence of rich flavor—we have continuously researched the initial processing techniques. Through numerous experiments, and by focusing on the unique characteristics of Sanchun tea, we honed in on the exact timing for withering and pile fermentation. It was a matter of just a few minutes or even seconds, but this slight variation in timing significantly has changed the tea’s chemical composition,” Xu explained. Thanks to the ongoing enhancements in processing techniques, the quality of the raw tea has improved, allowing for further screening and refinement to produce a Sanchun tea that boasts a pronounced aroma and rich flavor.

  

Xu is committed to promoting the craftsmanship of Sanchun tea, assisting local tea farmers in increasing their income and enhancing their livelihoods. He trains apprentices, establishes tea planting cooperatives aimed at poverty alleviation, and travels to tea-growing regions every year during the tea-picking season to provide hands-on instruction in the art of tea-making. “I live and work alongside the tea farmers, exploring and refining tea production techniques—this endeavor is not just about inheritance; it’s also about continuing a legacy of spirit,” Xu said.

Text by Yunnan Daily
Translated by YNTA