Poetic Yunnan 13: Vegetarian tours in NW Kunming
During the ongoing annual sessions of the NPC and CPPCC in Beijing, Wang Ning, Party Secretary of Yunnan Province and a deputy to the third session of the 14th National People’s Congress (NPC), invited global tourists to visit and experience the rich and diverse life of Yunnan.
For those tired of greasy food in urban areas, the northwestern suburbs of Kunming in central Yunnan have three locations where you can enjoy vegetarian dishes. These dishes are mostly light, organic, and health-conscious, making them particularly popular among women on a diet.
An overview of the Qiongzhu Temple
I. Qiongzhu Temple
The Qiongzhu Temple/筇竹寺, also known as the Bamboo Temple, is a Buddhist temple located on the lush Yu'an Mountain. It’s about 15 kilometers away from downtown Kunming. Meals are available at two separate sites within the temple.
The vegetarian meal at Qiongzhu Temple is reasonably priced at 10 yuan per person. The meal box includes rice, vegetables, and soup. This arrangement reflects the temple's philosophy of frugality and offers visitors the chance to experience the health benefits of vegetarian cuisine.
The vegetarian dishes are served at a tranquil yard known as "Chenxiang Courtyard." Photo/Wechat
The second dining site is located on the left side of the temple entrance in a tranquil yard known as "Chenxiang Courtyard." Here, visitors can enjoy vegetarian stir-fries and delicacies such as rice noodles with tofu.
On weekends, you can order a pot of tea and enjoy it with a few old friends in the yard, reminiscing about the past and contemplating the future. What a delightful way to spend your leisure time!
A vegetarian dish is served at a tranquil yard known as "Chenxiang Courtyard." Photo/Wechat
Qiongzhu Temple was originally established during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368). Like many ancient temples, it has a dramatic history, having been burned down and reconstructed several times.
During the Ming Dynasty, Yang Shen/杨慎(1488-1559), a top scholar who was exiled to Yunnan province for over 30 years, wrote a poem titled “Qiongzhu Temple.” The poem depicts the temple’s scenic beauty and reflects on the poet’s unfortunate life. Below are the lines, accompanied by Chinese pinyin and an English translation.
The entrance of the Qiongzhu Temple. PhotoWechat
qióng zhú sì
筇竹寺
bó wàng nán xíng lù
博望南行路，
kūn chí yǎo ruò tiān
昆池杳若天。
zì lián qiān bō kè
自怜迁播客，
yī wǎng yǐ sān nián
一往已三年。
A campsite in Jiaoye Park near the Qiongzhu Temple.
Qiongzhu Temple
In immense view, I see southern roads stretch far;
Kunming Lake melts into the sky like a star.
Exiled, I mourn this transient life of mine—
Three winters passed since I crossed that borderline.
A spring view of the Xuning Temple
II. Xuning Temple
The Xuning Temple/虚宁寺 is located at the foot of Changchong Mountain, which stands 2,345 meters high, in northern Kunming. While visiting other temples may require a bit of serendipity, many people come to Xuning Temple simply to enjoy a vegetarian meal.
Of course, the temple is not only famous for its vegetarian cuisine. Its orderly and solemn architecture is another major attraction. Overlooking the northern part of the city, visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of both the mountains and the urban landscape.
The vegetarian foods are served at the canteen of the Xuning Temple. Photo/Wechat
The vegetarian meal is nothing short of a feast. The dishes, which are either steamed, boiled, stir-fried, or cold-tossed, are accompanied by snacks, desserts, fruits, and soups. Even the pickiest eaters would find it hard to resist. As for the price, the meal costs 20 yuan per person.
What’s more, Xuning Temple has a charming tea and coffee house called Camellia Island/山嗏屿, where visitors can enjoy a beautiful urban view of north Kunming. Some may daydream in the cafe or simply relax and do nothing. For the young, the temple feels like a drop of sweet dew in the desert.
A 20-yuan vegetarian meal at the Xuning Temple. Photo/Wechat
Most visitors to the temple feel compelled to ascend nearby Mt. Changchong. The mountain has become a popular hiking spot for watching the sunrise, favored by both tourists and locals. However, timing is crucial. It’s better to choose to trek through the mountain in the latter half of the year. Local forest authorities have designated the fire prevention period from December 1 to June 15.
Xuning Temple, originally called Xuning Nunnery/虚凝庵, is mentioned by Luo Yangru in his book Collection of What I Know, where he notes that the temple was first built in 1365 AD.
The temple overlooks the northern part of Kunming city. Photo/Wechat
During the late Qing Dynasty, Kunming native Dai Chun/戴淳 (1790-1868) went on a spring outing with friends and wrote a 12-line poem titled Xuning Nunnery. Below are the first four lines, accompanied by Chinese pinyin and an English translation.
xū níng ān
虚凝庵
tiě gāo jī shí shēng
铁篙击石声，
zhàng rù chūn shān qǔ
杖入春山曲。
lù bái pán dié lǐng
路白盤叠岭，
zhú cuì tián kōng gǔ
竹翠填空谷。
A traditional Chinese version of the poem. Photo/Wechat
Xuning Nunnery
Clang—the iron staff strikes cold stone with might;
Through winding spring peaks, my cane carves its rite.
Misty trails coil round layered ridges in white;
While jade bamboos drown the valley in green light.
An entrance of the Miaogao Temple
III. Miaogao Temple
If there is a place that has recently become a tourist hotspot in Kunming, it must be the Miaogao Temple/妙高寺. While its vegetarian meals have long been a draw, blossom viewing in spring has emerged as another compelling reason to visit this mountain sanctuary.
Nestled in the northern part of Kunming city, Miaogao Temple is one of Yunnan's ancient temples. Ancient trees line the path leading to the temple's front gate. On an early morning or misty day, visitors feel as though they have entered another realm.
Box meals are served at the Miaogao Temple. Photo/Wechat
Amidst the crowds of visitors, willow-laced breezes carry cascades of pink-white petals dancing through temple courtyards. This creates an ethereal atmosphere scented with incense smoke and accompanied by Buddhist chants.
What used to be modest visitor queues have now transformed into winding lines that snake through the compact temple complex. Devotees patiently wait for hours for their turn to receive their blessing-bestowing vegetarian meal.
Handmade coffee is available on the way to the temple. Photo/Wechat
The simple 10 RMB/person lunch, served from 11:30 AM to 1:00 PM, has become a must-try ritual. After the meal, visitors join local elders to collect a share of clear mountain spring water. The water is perfect for brewing tea or coffee.
Originally constructed between 627 and 649 during the Tang dynasty, Miaogao Temple was later expanded during the Yuan dynasty. The renowned geographer Xu Xiake of the Ming dynasty once visited the temple and documented his journey in his travelogue. Yang Shen/杨慎 (1488-1559), a top scholar, wrote a poem titled Miaogao Temple. Below are the lines, accompanied by Chinese pinyin and an English translation.
A distant view of north Kunming from the temple
miào gāo sì
妙高寺
jué dǐng chóu fēi niǎo
绝顶愁飞鸟，
dān xiá yǐn lín miǎo
丹霞隐林杪。
gū sēng zǎo bì mén
孤僧早闭门，
yíng yíng fó dēng xiǎo 。
荧荧佛灯小。
Cherries are in full bloom at the temple these days. Photo/Wechat
Miaogao Temple
Atop the peak, even birds sigh in mid-flight;
Crimson dusk veils the forest’s fading height.
A solitary monk bolts his door at night—
The Buddha’s lone lamp flickers, frail yet bright.
Written by Wang Shixue; Proofreading by Zu Hongbing and Wang Huan; English polishing by Franklin (CICG)
(All WeChat photos in the article are subject to deletion in case of rights dispute. The other photos are taken by the writer.)